Category Archives: training courses

Why it is important to use gloves when dying hair or hair extensions

What is paraphenylenediamine and where is it found?

How can paraphenylenediamine cause skin irritation when dying hair or hair extensions and where is it found?


Article by Diane Shawe Monday M.Ed 

Paraphenylenediamine (PPD) is a chemical substance that is widely used as a permanent hair dye. It may also been found in textile or fur dyes, dark coloured cosmetics, temporary tattoos, photographic developer and lithography plates, photocopying and printing inks, black rubber, oils, greases and gasoline.

People working with PPD such as hairdressers or hair extensions technicians may develop dermatitis on their hands; patch testing usually reveals hypersensitivity to PPD. Occupational allergy to PPD has been found in a milk tester whom through laboratory work was in frequent contact with PPD solution. Dermatitis on the hands and occasional spreading to the arms and upper chest occurred.


YouTube is the undisputed champion in free visual knowledge transfer. I have seen lots of hair technicians demonstrating how to dye hair and often they are not using gloves.

Unprocess virgin Hair Extensions


In 2015/6 alone nearly £15m worth of treated human hair – has been washed and sometimes dyed – was imported into the UK, according to Customs and Excise. 

It comes mainly from India, China and Europe. On top of that almost £10m worth of wigs,  false beards, eyebrows and eyelashes made from the stuff were also imported. 

Those in the trade estimate the hair extension industry alone is worth £60m in this country, although there are no official figures.

When it comes to our tresses, the rarest and most expensive is natural blonde hair, Des Tobin a professor of cell biology at Bradford University, who has studied hair and the trade.

“About 90% of the world’s population has dark brown hair,” he says. “It’s actually really hard to get natural, adult hair that is blonde. The rarity of hair colour will dictate the price. Blonde hair can cost up to three times as much as dark hair.”

Recently we have seen a flood of natural Virgin remy hair which is unprocessed enter the market place. It is a lot cheaper so an increase in home and salon hair bleaching and toning is on the rise.

PPD in Hair Dye and the importance of gloves

Millions are spent annually on home hair dyes, salon balayage and multi colour ombre colours. The use of PPD as a hair dye is popular because it is a permanent dye that gives a natural look. Hair can also be shampooed without becoming decoloured and perming to achieve waves or curls can be done without difficulty. 

PPD hair dyes usually come packaged as 2 bottles, one containing the PPD dye preparation and the other containing the developer or oxidizer. PPD is a colourless substance that requires oxygen for it to become coloured. It is this intermediate, partially oxidised state that may cause allergy in sensitive individuals. Fully oxidized PPD is not a sensitiser thus individuals with PPD allergy can wear wigs or fur coats dyed with PPD safely.

What are the reactions to PPD allergy?

Reaction caused by the use of hair dye in mild cases usually only involves dermatitis to the upper eyelids or the rims of the ears. In more severe cases, there may be marked reddening and swelling of the scalp and the face. The eyelids may completely close and the allergic contact dermatitis reaction may become widespread.

Severe allergy to PPD can result in contact urticaria and rarely, anaphylaxis. PPD has also been suspected of precipitating contact leukodermaand vitiligo in genetically predisposed individuals.

What should you do to avoid PPD allergy?


For the Technician


If you are a hairdresser or hair extensions technician, rule one when working with any chemical that could cause dermatitis is to wear gloves. I have seen many youtube demo videos were the technician is not wearing any gloves. 


For the Client


If your client have an allergy to PPD  you should avoid the use of all oxidation type hair dyes. These are usually recognised by coming in a 2-bottle preparation. If you have been informed by your client or you should have completed a client consultation form checking for allergy history (most clients won’t know what PPD is) to be safe perform a patch test or suggest a semi-permanent hair dyes which may be a suitable alternative but approximately 10% of individuals who are allergic to PPD also react to these; 


Patch testing


Patch testing to confirm sensitivity should be performed prior to their use. Metallic hair dyes and vegetable rinse hair dyes may be used but these do not provide permanent colouring. Some newer permanent and semipermanent hair dyes use para-toluenediamine sulfate (PTDS) instead of PPD. This is likely to be tolerated by about 50% of people who are allergic to PPD. Patch testing is recommended prior to use.

Related substances to PPD which may also cause an allergic reaction


Azo dyes: used in semi-permanent and temporary hair dyes, ballpoint pen inks, gasoline and diesel oil, and as colouring agent in foods and medications 
Benzocaine and procaine: these are local anaesthetics used by doctors and dentists

Sulfonamides, sulfones, sulfa drugs: 

PPD allergy may make you sensitive to the use of these drugs also, discuss with your doctor before changing or stopping your medication
Para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA): this is used in sunscreens and creams that are readily available in over-the-counter preparations. You should only used sunscreens that are labeled ‘PABA-free’. Ask your pharmacist for suitable alternatives.

Para-aminosalicylic acid: used for tuberculosis

Alternative names for paraphenylenediaminePPD or PPDAPhenylenediamine basep


-Phenylenediamine4
-Phenylenediamine1,4
-Phenylenediamine4
-Benzenediamine1,4
-Benzenediaminepara
-Diaminobenzene (p-Diaminobenzene)para
-Aminoaniline (p-Aminoaniline)Orsin™Rodol™Ursol™ 


Please seek professional advice from you GPS or Chemist if unsure.


There’s more to adding hair

The “epidemic” of dementia as a killer of older people to be given more public attention.

David Baddiel has called for the “epidemic” of dementia as a killer of older people to be given more public attention. I agree!

The 52-year-old, whose father Colin is housebound and receives 24-hour care, has made a television programme exploring the impact dementia has on close family members of sufferers.

He said creating The Trouble With Dad was hard but decided there must be a wider dialogue about the disease.

Baddiel told the Radio Times: “T here is no situation where it is straightforwardly OK to put someone on camera who is not totally informed about it due to dementia, as is the case here.

“But the alternative is that nobody ever talks about this, and we must. It’s an epidemic – the largest killer of older people, bigger than cancer. We must bring that into the light.”

His father, 82, suffers from Pick’s disease – a rare type of dementia that can see sufferers become sexually disinhibited and prone to swearing and rude behaviour.

The film, was aired on Channel 4 in February, focusing on the relationship between Colin and Baddiel and his brother Ivor

The comedian, who is probably best known for his work with Frank Skinner, said he feels “exhausted” after weekly visits with his father.

“He’s hard work. Some times he’s not too mad, but others he’s very thankless. He can be extremely exasperating.”

The father of two added: “He doesn’t understand who the kids are any more. He was never a cuddly grandpa. He doesn’t always know Ivor and me.

“He understands he has sons, and can recognise pictures of us from our teens, but he seems to think we should still look like that.”

Source: http://www.belfasttelegraph.co.uk/entertainment/news/david-baddiel-warns-of-dementia-epidemic-as-he-launches-film-on-disease-impact-35449459.html

So my biggest question here is “why in the early to mid development of this disease in patients do doctors, social services, carers, banks and administrator speak to dementia sufferers as though they will remember a single word?”

“Why do they expect them to read small print leaflets instead of writing to them?

Does and Don’t Prior to Getting Your Wedding Hair Extensions Done

Five Tips About Getting Your Wedding Hair Extensions Done

I wouldn’t ever suggest doing your wedding hair yourself in the first place and please please do not put clipins in for your special day! 

For a wedding you’re attending, sure. Go right ahead.

Do your own curls, straighten your own locks, run a brush through it and call it a day.

But with your own wedding, you have to remember all eyes are on you. And, during your ceremony, all eyes are on the back of your head. You want to make sure what they’re looking at is perfection and you can get that from a professional. When you’re stressing out wedding morning — hoping that your groom makes it to the church on time, wondering if there will be enough food at the cocktail hour — the last thing you want to do is stand in your bathroom with a curling iron. You won’t have the patience to hold each curl long enough and your hair will be a mess. And you’ll regret it.

I put together a list of five tips about getting your wedding hair done so that you don’t end up looking at your photos and regretting anything.

1. Don’t wash your hair the morning of your wedding.

Showering when you wake up just makes you feel energised. And for wedding day, that’s what you need.

2. Know what you want. And make sure you get it.

Pinterest is an amazing tool to help you find wedding hair ideas. In fact, we have a some wedding hair ideas Pinterest board and growing. Feel free to pin any and all of those ideas. Because when you’re getting married, you need an idea of what you want. The standard hair extension technicians at the salon will not look at you and say, “Oh, you have medium-length hair. This is the style for you.” Instead, they will say, “What style did you have in mind?” And it’s so much easier to show them a photo as a guide instead of saying, “I was thinking something half up and down with curls. I think. Maybe. Or all down. Or no curls. What do you think?”

Just a note to have a Signature Hair Extension Consultant offer you that service you would have to be prepared for a big bill.

When you decide what you want, make sure you get it.

A bit of advice, don’t be unreasonable or too far reaching about your style. For instance if you have 1 inch of hair don’t go asking for 26 inches. (unless it’s a wig)

3. Don’t waste your money on hair extensions trialstyles. 

This is the most controversial tip, but I am really sticking firm to stating you don’t need a trial. However with hair extensions I suggest you get them installed at least a week before your wedding if they are semi permanent. I also recommend you have a stylist that is use to styling long hair extensions.

Many stylists will have a portfolio where you can check out their work and styles they’ve done before so you can get an idea of what they are capable of. Salons who attend wedding expos will have these at the booths usually (I’ve never seen a salon at an expo that didn’t have one, but you never know). Portfolios should help you feel comfortable at a salon you’ve never used before. (MAKE SURE IT’S THERE WORK AND NOT DOWNLOADED FROM THE INTERNET)

And you have to remember, too, you’re hiring a professional. You have to trust that she knows what she’s doing because this is what she gets paid to do. If you were having surgery, would you go to the doctor for a trial? No. You would just go and get it done. Extreme example, but same concept.
4. Find out if your salon will travel.

Unless you are really confident that everything will be done if you went to the salon, find out if your stylist will come to you along with the makeup artist.

Make sure you also have some quality time for your stylist and that you won’t  be disturbed.


5. Don’t forget to pull out some cash to pay your stylist.

Getting organised the day before for things you need to pay for is worth it.

Your debit card has probably been hammered and the last thing you want is paying for your hair and makeup to go drastically wrong. Also prepare for emergencies incase a bridesmaid has a desaster that needs fixing straight away.

Why Hair Extensions and Hair Loss go hand in hand as a viable business

Why setting up a hair extension expert salon could give you a long term career?

Article written by Diane Shawe M.Ed

Getting started in the hair extension business by Diane ShaweWe have seen the hair extension market grow over the past 15 years, now there are more hair extension techniques than ever before and it can be confusing to decide which is the right one for you to either apply to your own hair or become a qualified technician.

If you are thinking of becoming a qualified technician, it is important to consider how potential clients might make their decision.  Some people will make a decision based on price, others on their hair type and some based on what they need to achieve.

Here are just a few tips to help with your decision making process.

1. Wigs:  Wigs are a quick and easy way to give yourself a quick makeover.  What you need to bear in mind is that the cheaper the wig the more un-natural it will look.  You don’t need to spend a lot of money but it is worth investing in a wig that you can use from time to time.  Client will pay between £120 – £300 for a good quality wig which could last for up to 12 months.

2. Hair Pieces: There are lots of different hair pieces from pony tails to rear hair attachments in all different shades, curly, straight or plaits. There are also specialist hair pieces for thinning hair that can help disguise any problems.  The thing to bear in mind is that hair pieces are not often very secure and could make you feel a little uncomfortable.  Some of the ponytail pieces can be securely fixed, so if you want a demure look go for a ponytail.

popular integrated weave

3. Integrated Weaves: This is when wefts of hair is sewn onto a fine cornrow which is then hide by the bulk of your hair on top.  It is a popular technique because if done correctly it can look very natural and offer up a robust and secure hair enhancement solution.  If you look after the hair you can reuse it when you go back to have it re tightened. Clients could pay between £190 – £330 for the integrated weave.

How hair extensions are sourced treated and graded by diane shawe M.Ed 2014 price4. Pre-tips: This is small pieces of hair that have been pre bonded together.  They can be added in sections all over the head to aid thickening, give the impression of highlights or lowlight and length.  Pre-tips can be applied using heat, micro rings or even small elastic bands.  Be aware that they have to be professionally removed so as not to damage your own hair.

5. Strand by Strand (glue gun): This is when hot bond is used to bond small sections of hair to the recipients own hair.  It was a very popular technique in 6 years ago, but requires professional application and removal by a qualified technician.  Can give the appearance of flyaway hair that you could somewhat run your fingers through.  It is a very time consuming technique and is much better for a long term wear over 3-4 months.

6) Clip in hair extensions: These are now very popular.  They are best used for lengthening mid should length hair.  If the hair is shorter they don’t sit very well because they can be a little bulky in appearance.  They don’t offer up much security unless they have been professionally fitted.  This is when a very small cornrow is done and the clips are slipped through for much added security.  Great for an evening occasion but not advisable for long term wear.  click to read more

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7) Net Weave:  This technique is used when the client wants to partially extend just a section of their hair or if the client suffers from patchy alopecia.  This technique is suitable for 2-4 months wear.

8) Hook and Latch: This technique does not use any glues orhttp://www.hairextensionstraining.academy threads. It is a beautiful technique, flat to the touch and hair could be worn up.  It works well with shorter hair especially the Micro ring track technique.

9) Lace Wigs: Lace wigs have become very popular. They are really good for girls with short thin hair, damaged hair, hair that needs a rest or a complete makeover.  Top celebrities have made them really popular and you can see why from the video testimonial below. See Radio TV presenters new lace wig

alopeciaconsultant

10) Braides and PlaitsBraides and Plaits have been around for hundreds of years.  A technique that can look very simple or quite exotic.  Braids can be worn for a number of months until the hair grows out, they can even have beads added to the end for that extra special look.

Hair Loss Specialists
Clients also suffer from thinning hair can be helped, click here to hear what one client had to say.

As we see an aging population, people are becoming more confident about getting help to resolve short term or long term hair problems.
HAIR EXTENSION TRAINERS AND CONSISTENT SPECIALIST SALONS
There is s shortage of qualified hair extension trainers and specialist practicianers in the UK. Visit this link to find out more and how you can become qualified and invest in this business.

Investment opportunity to set up your own specialist salon

9 Steps to The Killer Covering Letter

It has become almost common knowledge that most potential employers do not even bother responding to unsuccessful candidates that apply for vacant jobs.

Sometimes you need to give yourself the winning edge. Think Clint Eastwood with the sun behind him in a gun fight. Sometimes in giving massive importance to the CV, the value of a strong cover letter is often neglected. The key to securing that dream job is a combination of a well-crafted CV and a killer cover letter. While the CV lists your important achievements and skills, the cover letter coerces your prospective employer into hiring you. The cover letter very finely articulates your desire to work for the company. To stand apart from the competition and make yourself an attractive hire, you need to draft a killer cover letter. Here are the 9 Steps to landing that job…

  1. 1.     Knowing what they want, what they really really want

The cover letter offers a window to your personality and qualifications. But apart from that, it is also a way to demonstrate how much you really know about your prospective employer. To do this, you need to research on the company, the financial growth statistics, the industries that your employer serves, etc. Learn about your potential firm and showcase that. Only when you know what they want and who they are looking for, will you be able to portray that in your cover letter.

  1. 2.     Giving it that personal touch

When you are searching for a job and have focused on one, make sure you find out the name of the contact person. Beginning your cover letters with formal salutations such as “Dear Sir or Madam”, gives the impression that you don’t know whom the letter should be addressed to. Personalise your cover letters while retaining a semi-formal tone. Lack of knowledge in these areas can significantly impact your chances of getting the job you want.

  1. 3.     The Art of the Powerful Opening

Avoid the clichéd opening paragraphs and instead strive to make an impact with the introduction. In a powerful opening paragraph, you have to briefly state your objective in applying for the job and how you heard about the opening. While being creative in your openings, don’t forget that cute introductions do not work. Give your cover letter the necessary gravitas without being too sycophantic.

  1. 4.     Start Right

After the introduction, comes the body of the cover letter where you detail your achievements without repetition. In this part of the cover letter, you are expected to expand upon your achievements as mentioned in the CV and provide further examples of how you can help your potential company grow. For example, if you are applying for marketing positions then be sure to explain how you can develop a marketing strategy to bring in additional revenue for the company. Simply said, put your best foot forward.

  1. 5.     Finish Strong

The closing of the letter should definitely express gratitude for the HR manager’s time and patience. End the letter by outlining the next steps on your part. Never expect a potential employer to follow up with you. Demonstrate your proactive nature by stating that you will follow up for the job. This will also indicate your enthusiasm for the job. Remember to include a phone number or email address so that the firm can get in touch with you first if required.

  1. 6.     Money Later

The motivation behind taking up any job is money. To be happy in your job you need to be paid well. Don’t become hasty and quote any figures in the letter. Wait for a formal meeting to discuss salary issues.

  1. 7.     Details Matter

Remember to spell-check your cover letters and get them proof-read from friends or family. Be sure to thoroughly check your cover letters till you are completely satisfied with them.

  1. 8.     How does it Look?

In case you are submitting your cover letter by email, make use of word processing software such as MS Word. Write your cover letters in Word, making use of a standardized format. Align the text correctly and ensure that the letter is cleanly formatted. Punctuation should be in place. While you spend a tremendous amount of time on preparing the CV, you sometimes end up neglecting the cover letter. Formatting is essential otherwise the HR manager reading your cover letter might just have to spend his or her time deciphering it.

  1. 9.     Check That Grammar

Make sure that you adhere to grammar rules and make use of them while writing your cover letter. Incorrect grammar used in the wrong places can not only create a wrong impression, but also change the meaning of what you intended to convey.

These are such simple steps to write a killer covering letter.

ü Draft your letter so that it highlights your skills, achievements, goals, and motivations.

ü Don’t meander from the main topic.

ü Stick to the basics and be direct in your approach.

Do the above and nothing can stop you from getting that job.

 

 

Outsourcing your knowledge

Albert EinsteinWhy knowing less helps you to do more.

Diane Shawe M.Ed. 

When you think about the power of your brain and how we learn, memorise and recall all those facts, it can get very confusing. Having taught for nearly 25 years and trained some of the brightest professionals over last 10 years, I believe that knowledge is divided in two distinct areas. We can either know about a subject ourselves or we know where we can retrieve information on that subject. The massive amount of information available online has opened an infinite library of easily and quickly retrievable information with simple search engines. I like to think of it as an organic external hard drive, an outsourced memory we can plug in at any time. Some have argued that the internet dilutes the most traditional kind of knowledge: knowing a subject ourselves. They argue that in some way it makes our brains less efficient, diminishing our intelligence and destroying our inner hard drives and memory.

You may remember (if you are of a certain age) that when you were young, you knew by heart the phone number of your closest friends. Since the introduction of digital directories on smartphones there is no longer any reason to memorise numbers by heart.   On the other hand, how many hundreds more contacts do you have now compared to then thanks to the digital directories? In reality, how much more connected are you? The real deal of the information age is not that it allows us to know more, but that it allows us to know less in terms of depth of what we know, as mentioned by David Brooks, a New York Times columnist, in his famous 2006 NY Times article[1] The Outsourced Brain.

neuroscience brain“Memory? I’ve externalised it.” He said, “I am one of those baby boomers who are making this the “It’s on the Tip of My Tongue Decade.” But now I no longer need to have a memory, for I have Google, Yahoo and Wikipedia. Now if I need to know some fact about the world, I tap a few keys and enjoy the vast resource of the external mind.”

I think the positive side of this is that we are free to expand our awareness of subjects we did not have space, or availability, to explore before. Our memory now has a different function: it is a digital index that remembers the existence of a subject and what are the best leads to find information on that subject. I too had thought that the magic of the information age was that it allowed us to know more facts. Then I realised that the magic of the information age is that it allows us to know less.

It provides us with external cognitive servants, silicon memory systems if you will, with collaborative online filters, consumer preference algorithms and networked knowledge. We thus can give these servants the massive raw data and liberate ourselves to think, explore and be creative. You can use your brain to learn new skills, the soft skills that are the true measure of success.

Your outsourced memory (the internet, the cloud and more) allows you to be aware of the existence of information you would never have come across before when you were limited to what your inner memory could hold. It allows you to increase the quantity (and thus the quality) of the information that you can process because you do not always have to worry about memorising every single detail of it. It allows you to use more brain power in linking concepts and applying them rather than remembering them. It empowers you to think and process information faster because your brain has the space to hold links to so much different information, and in doing so it expands your subjective time. Back in the analogue era, the difference between a deep brain and a shallow brain was the availability of information and the choice of whether to take in that information or not came second.

As an educationalist and technophile, combined with my outsourced memory I have the capacity to think deeper. Now that (nearly) everything is available, the power is back to you: it is up to you to take responsibility of what content goes into your mind and how you use your outsourced memory.

Now you have begun to outsource your brain and now have room to do something rather special with your neo-cortex. Enjoy.

 

Six tips on how to avoid water retension

What Causes Water Retention and How to Avoid It

Are your feet, ankles, hands, or legs often swollen? This happens because of water retention, a condition known as edema. It is characterized by the accumulation of fluids in the tissues, circulatory system, and cavities.
Water retention, also known as fluid retention refers to an excessive build up of fluid in the circulatory system, body tissues, or cavities in the body. Up to 70% of the human body consists of waterwater exists both inside and outside our body’s cells. Edema is the medical term for swelling.

The main causes of edema are pregnancy, not being physically active, premenstrual syndrome, sedentary lifestyle, and certain medications. But, swelling can also occur during a long flight.

Most cases of edema are not serious. However, sometimes it can indicate heart failure or kidney disease, so it’s important to treat it on time.

Here are the main causes of edema as well as suggested ways of how to reduce the swelling and avoid water retention, as long as there’s no underlying condition.

6 Causes of Edema and suggested solutions

1. Excessive Sodium Intake

If your diet is based on sodium-rich foods and if you don’t drink enough water, your body will use its water reserves. This, in turn, results in water retention. The human cells can expand up to 20 times with the help of water. So, the important thing here is to know which foods contain high amounts of sodium, so you can start avoiding them.

Besides salt, sodium can also be found in canned vegetables, some condiments, processed meat, and other processed foods. On the other hand, Celtic and Himalayan sea salt can reverse the water retention caused by table salt.

2. Magnesium Deficiency

Lack of magnesium can lead to edema. This mineral is vital for most functions in the body, so insufficient amounts of it can hinder the proper function of the body. This will eventually lead to water retention.

One research showed that taking 200 milligrams as a daily dose of magnesium can reduce water retention in women with premenstrual symptoms. Increasing the intake of magnesium-rich foods or taking it as a supplement can relieve this condition.

Here are the foods which contain the highest amount of magnesium: dried fruits, spinach, dark green veggies, dark chocolate, nuts, avocados, peas, and whole grains.

3. Lack of Vitamin B6

Deficiency in vitamin B6 can lead to edema since it’s involved in many aspects of water balance in the body.

A study published in the Journal of Caring Sciences involved women who experienced water retention caused by premenstrual syndrome. They took vitamin B6 on a daily basis, and their condition was soon improved. This vitamin is water-soluble, so it requires many cofactors to function properly. Therefore, it’s best to obtain it from whole foods.

Foods high in this vitamin are potatoes with skin, chicken, lean beef, turkey, tuna, dried fruit, bananas, sunflower seeds, and pistachio nuts.

4. Lack of Potassium

This mineral is vital for the proper function of cells, tissues, and organs in the body. It plays a significant role in the maintenance of normal water balance in the body.

Potassium deficiency can result from not consuming enough potassium-rich foods but high amounts of salt. This will eventually lead to edema. Lack of this mineral can cause weight gain, muscle spasms, and cramps. Potassium can reduce water retention due to its ability to reduce the sodium levels.

You can find this mineral in most fruits, especially in watermelon, honey melon, and rockmelon.

5. Dehydration

Dehydration occurs when you don’t drink enough water. This condition forces the body to retain water in order to survive, resulting in swellings in your feet, ankles, hands, or legs. Luckily, it’s not hard to improve your condition. Just drink enough water and potassium-rich juices, and avoid soda drinks and coffee.

6. Excessive Consumption of Processed Foods

As we mentioned, processed foods are full of sugar and sodium – one of the leading causes of water retention. But, they also contain artificial food additives whose toxic nature puts a load on the kidneys and the liver.

Foods which contain high amounts of sugar including artificial sweeteners can cause spikes in the levels of insulin and blood sugar.

Therefore, we recommend avoiding processed foods as much as you can.

The Benefits of Steaming Hair Extensions

Having you hair extensions steamed can be an effective tool that adds moisture, restores color vibrancy and strengthens the elasticity of dead hair not to mension the benefits to your own hair.

Article by Diane Shawe

According to master signature hair extensionist and author Diane Shawe the steamer uses heat and water to lift the cuticle on the hair shaft and allow conditioners and treatments to penetrate and condition hair.

Another benefit of hair steamers is that the moist heat encourages blood flow to the scalp, aided circulation of the scalp equals healthier, longer growing hair when hidden away under hair extensions.

Black women with natural hair have used steamers for years because it helps to hydrate and define their coils. It is also recommended steaming for women who are transitioning from chemically-relaxed or colour treated hair to use steaming

Whether you have blonde, fine or coarse hair, long or short, or no hair extensions your hair will benefit from hair steaming.

Diane advises doing a steam treatment every two weeks to build up moisture retention. If alternating between pre-shampoo oil and deep conditioning treatments, Just be sure not to overdo it, because over-steaming can actually over-moisturise the hair making it limp and weak.

Solutions to thinning hair

Amongst other benefits, steaming helps to increase blood circulation and flush toxins from the body. But since this post is about haircare and hair extensions, we are infinitely more interested in the benefits to hair. This is an area that is still very much in debate, with the science behind it a work in progress.

That being said the reputed benefits of steam for hair are:

1. Added moisture
2. Increases hair shine
3. Softens hair making it more manageable
4. Decreasing de-tangling time by reducing tangles and knots
5. Reduces hair breakage
6. Reduces dandruff and helps with exfoliating the scalp by softening flaking skin making it easier to remove
7. Hair feels healthier

Pre-pooing
Pre-pooing is simply using some sort of conditioning treatment on the hair prior to shampooing. This can be with oils, special treatment conditioners or even regular old instant conditioners. Adding steam at this stage can often increase the efficacy of the treatment.

Deep conditioning
This is the point where most people incorporate steam as it’s the easiest and most obvious. The steam increases the absorption potential of the conditioning product used whilst providing additional moisture. Apply the deep conditioning product to the hair then add steam via whichever method you prefer. Steam should be used for 15-20 minutes but no longer than 30 minutes.

Oil Rinsing
This involves covering the hair in a light layer of oil, leaving it to sit for a while then rinsing it out. This helps keep hair lubricated reducing tangles and single strand knots. It also adds shine and depending on the oil used, can add strength. I like coconut oil as it penetrates the hair shaft and help reduce hygral fatigue. Using a steamer can take this process to the next level by helping the oil absorb even more deeply. After applying the oil, leave it to sit under steam for 15-20 minutes then rinse with cold water. Dont use too much as this can make the hair heavy during styling.

Using the steam room at the gym/spa
Whenever I use the gym or go to a spa with a steam room, I always make sure to pack my deep conditioner. It’s a great way to get a full body steam session going. You can slather the conditioner on your dry hair, no need to add a shower cap walk in and steam away.

Get a copy of Diane Shawe book from Amazon

How to help organise brain development in adolescents

Helping the youths to achieve more

Helping the youths to achieve more

Brain Development and Adolescent Growth Spurts

Judy Willis MD

Neurologist/Teacher/Grad School Ed faculty/Author/Guest Blogger

As your students move through adolescence, their brains are going through a dynamic change from chaos to clarity. These developmental changes have profound implications for how you’ll be able to guide students during these transformative years.

Brain Remodeling: Chaos to Clarity

The brain first goes through a rapid maturation phase in the months before and after birth, and a second maturation phase throughout later childhood and adolescence. During this second phase of increased brain growth, the prefrontal cortex is the site of the brain’s most active reorganization and growth. Before building your understanding of what is taking place in the prefrontal cortex during its adolescent growth spurt, let’s explore what is housed in this late-developing part of the brain.

The prefrontal cortex is where the highest cognitive and emotional control networks are being constructed, especially during the school years. These networks are what neurologists call executive functions.

The networks of the executive functions direct the complex mental processes that you see emerging as students grow. Executive functions can be thought of as the skills that would make a corporate executive successful, abilities that allow them to:

  • Organize
  • Prioritize
  • Communicate effectively
  • Accurately interpret validity and value of information
  • Make long-range plans to achieve goals
  • Assess risk
  • Solve problems creatively
  • Innovate

These networks do not reach full effectiveness until early adulthood. When well nurtured by use, executive functions ultimately guide the brain’s abilities to:

  • Manage emotional stability
  • Control impulses
  • Plan
  • Respond productively to corrective feedback
  • Learn from mistakes
  • Remain resilient to setbacks
  • Reflect thoughtfully before making decisions and choices.

Early adolescence (ages 10-12) is a good time to build students’ skills of organizing and prioritizing information and time management. The opportunities you provide to guide them in using these executive functions also provide the activation to strengthen these networks when they are at peak neuroplastic responsiveness. As a result of this strengthening, your students will build more skills en route to becoming self-directed learners.

Helping Students Organize Themselves

Successful organization is needed for preparing and completing most activities related to school. The development of this executive function becomes even more critical as the responsibilities and requirements of school and extracurricular activities increase each year. Using strategies that increase student awareness of these skills and providing guided opportunities to use them will help adolescents build the brainpower that they need.

Start by promoting student awareness of their existing organizing skills. Ask questions such as:

  • How do you sort your music on playlists?
  • How do you organize your files on your computer?

Also, ask questions about familiar things that are already organized systematically, such as:

  • How is the content of this book organized into chapters?
  • What organization do you see in the periodic table of elements or in dividing plants and animals into classifications such as kingdoms, genus, and species?

Other Strategies

1. Teacher Modeling and Discussion

Model your systems of organization (filing, recording progress, how you set up the classroom, etc.). Draw students’ attention to the organizational strategies that you use during instruction.

2. Clear Instructions

Initially, when providing organizational strategies, emphasize them both verbally and in writing. Give students clear instructions for procedures, projects, or class transitions as you model organizational structure.

3. Student Modeling

Assign selected students to model the procedures that you’ve described, such as the right way and the wrong way to organize their class groups during collaborative work time.

4. Checking for Understanding

Stop between segments of complex or multi-step instructions, allowing students to organize their thoughts and ask questions. Ask students to repeat back their understanding of the instructions so that they can respond to your feedback and reorganize appropriately.

5. Gradual Release of Responsibility

Throughout the year, plan a gradual decrease in the scaffolding that you provide for student organization of time and goals. For example, back away from giving them your timeline schedule for parts of a book report or project, let them plan and write their own timelines, and revise these as you help them monitor their progress.

6. Feedback

Observe student progress and setbacks and provide feedback with opportunities for them to revise their organizational systems.

The Case for Investing in Executive Functions

As the caretaker of your students’ brains during the years of rapid prefrontal cortex development, the opportunities that you provide for them to use these critical neural networks are precious gifts. The tools and skills that you help them build will empower them to achieve their highest potential now, and will increase their satisfaction and success as they inherit the challenges and opportunities of the 21st century.

Global Personal Bloggers of Influence for 2017

When twitter came out and account holders tweeted what they ate, we all thought twitter had a short life span.  Now the media rummages through top celebrities tweets to find something sensationable to report about.  Would be employers have been know to use candidates social media postings as evidence against them.
The era of the Personal style bloggers use to get caricatured as either geeks or pretty, brainless girls who dress up for their camera-wielding boyfriends and post their results to a WordPress blog.
But wait a minute, with instagram, Facebook, linkedin and twitter integration most of these bloggers have grown quiet influential with hundred of thousands of followers. Over the past decade, these independent publishers have become a real force in the fashion industry — not just snapping up front row seats at fashion shows, but landing major campaigns and collaborations with brands, becoming regular guests on TV shows like “Today” and “America’s Next Top Model,” and turning their blogs into multimillion-dollar businesses. Some have become household names. Independent European bloggers are harder to pin down as most of them are linked to magazines.
Chiara Ferragni, Hanneli Mustaparta and Nicole Warne. Photo: Clemens Bilan/Stringer

Chiara Ferragni, Hanneli Mustaparta and Nicole Warne. Photo: Clemens Bilan/Stringer

To determine the ranking, consideraction was given to:

  • Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, YouTube and Pinterest followers, as well as website traffic. These numbers gave us a snapshot of how many people these bloggers are reaching every day.
  • Brand extensions. We gave props to bloggers who have used their influence to create original products.
  • It factor. We talked to industry insiders about whom advertisers are loving right now, and who is moving the most products via affiliate links.
  • Google News searches. Headline makers were rewarded for extending their reach beyond their own network.
Chiara Ferragni. Photo: Jason Merritt for Getty Images Entertainment

Chiara Ferragni. Photo: Jason Merritt for Getty Images Entertainment

1. Chiara Ferragni, The Blonde Salad 
The 27-year-old Italian, who now lives in Los Angeles, has the broadest reach of any individual fashion blogger on our list, with more than 3 million Instagram followers. She’s a global star, as popular in Europe as she is in the U.S. What’s more, links from her site drive traffic and conversions, according to many of the brands with whom she has partnered. She was also recently named to an expert panel that will help determine the shortlist.

Oh, and she graced the cover of Lucky magazine’s February issue along with fellow bloggers Nicole Warne and Zanita Whittington.

2. Aimee Song, Song of Style 
Song, 28, is a Los Angeles-based interior designer whose straightforward street-style shots have made her popular with brands and readers alike. Song also has an incredible Instagram following — 1.9 million — and has worked hard to build her YouTube audience as well, with more than 28,000 subscribers to her channel.

3. Wendy Nguyen, Wendy’s Lookbook 
Yet another L.A.-based blogger, Nguyen, 31, is best known for her YouTube channel, which currently boasts 600,000-plus subscribers. (Her 2011 video, “25 Ways to Tie a Scarf” has been viewed over 29 million times.) Nguyen’s point of view is unique in that she grew up in the foster system, and has opened up about her experiences to her readers.

Kristina Bazan. Photo: Frazer Harrison for Getty Images Entertainment

Kristina Bazan. Photo: Frazer Harrison for Getty Images Entertainment

4. Kristina Bazan, Kayture 
This Swiss-model blogger, 21, has an impressive reach on Facebook — with more than 1.1 million likes — in addition to a major presence on Instagram, Twitter, etc. Bazan is a favorite of high-end brands: she’s worked with Louis Vuitton, Hugo Boss and Piaget, among others.

5. Julie Sariñana, Sincerely Jules
The 29-year-old blogger, who lives in Los Angeles, started her site in 2009 — early, compared to many of her peers. Her easy, approachable style has translated well into her own line of t-shirts, printed with often inspirational, occasionally irreverent, quotes.

6. Rumi Neely, Fashion Toast 
Neely, 31, launched Fashion Toast in 2007. Her particular style of blogging — photo-heavy posts featuring cool clothes and model poses — has greatly influenced the generation of influencers who have followed her. While Neely has collaborated with established brands in the past, she recently launched her own line. Are You Am I, a collection of slip dresses, tap pants and distinctly cut tees, is notable for its specificity. For fans who want to emulate Neely’s style — and there are plenty of them — there is nothing more perfect.

7. Nicole Warne, Gary Pepper Girl 
One of three bloggers to land Lucky‘s February 2015 cover, the Sydney-based Warne, 25, first launched Gary Pepper as a vintage e-commerce site in 2009. Warne started out blogging and modeling the clothes as a way to market the website, and by 2011, it was one of the largest online vintage retailers in Australia. However, the young entrepreneur’s side project soon became the main event, and in 2012 she shut down the e-commerce leg of Gary Pepper to focus on her blog-driven business.

Blair Eadie. Photo: Cindy Ord for Getty Images Entertainment

Blair Eadie. Photo: Cindy Ord for Getty Images Entertainment

8. Blair Eadie, Atlantic-Pacific 
The New York-based Eadie, 29, is best known for her accessible, yet educated, approach to fashion. Based in San Francisco when she launched the blog, Eadie has worked as a merchandiser for brands like Gap and Tory Burch, which means she has a professional edge when it comes to outfit posts. And brands like love working with her because she has a reputation for converting readers into shoppers.

9. Julia Engel, Gal Meets Glam 
The San Francisco-based Engel, 23, is seen as an up-and-comer in the space. She’s already amassed a large following across platforms, from Pinterest to Instagram. Appealing to the same sorts of readers who worship Lauren Conrad’s pretty aesthetic, Engel’s site is easy to navigate, with lots of opportunities to shop affiliate links.

10. Nicolette Mason 
Mason, who writes a monthly column for Marie Claire and designed her own collection for Modcloth last fall, is one of the most in-demand bloggers working right now. The 29-year-old writer played a role in the promotion and social media around Target’s new plus-size collection Ava & Viv and is also a budding TV personality, offering style advice on programs including “Today” and “Good Morning America.” Mason is notable because she uses her blog as a platform to discuss bigger social issues, including race, sexuality and body image.

11. Shea Marie: Peace, Love Shea 
The Los Angeles-based blogger and TV host, 27, has the high-fashion-meets-Southern-California look brands eat up. She’s worked with the likes of Dior, Gucci, H&M and Guess.

Bryanboy. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris for Getty Images Entertainment

Bryanboy. Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris for Getty Images Entertainment

12. Bryanboy 
The OG fashion blogger and best friend of Fashion Toast‘s Rumi Neely, the New York-based, Philippines-bred Bryan Grey Yambao has transformed from an online-diary keeper to a celebrity and fashion insider. While other bloggers from his era have fallen off the map, Yambao, 32, has remained relevant by branching out. Memorable projects include a collection with furrier Adrienne Landau and a hosting spot on several seasons of “America’s Next Top Model.”

13. Elin Kling
The New York-based Kling, who is Swedish, was one of the first bloggers to collaborate with a brand on a collection. (In 2011, H&Mreleased a Kling-designed line.) But her fantastic stand-alone label, Toteme, has transformed Kling, 31, from a blogger to a full-fledged designer.

14. Zanita Whittington
The Stockholm-based Aussie, 28, was one of Lucky‘s February cover stars. Along with modeling and blogging, Whittington is also serious about photography. Her site is a sort of “how to” for aspiring bloggers, with service pieces on starting a blog and building an audience.

Gabi Gregg. Photo: Ilya S. Savenok for Getty Images Entertainment

Gabi Gregg. Photo: Ilya S. Savenok for Getty Images Entertainment

15. Gabi Gregg, Gabifresh
One of three plus-size bloggers chosen to star in the campaign for Target’s new Ava & Viv collection, Gregg started her blog in 2008 when she couldn’t find an entry-level job in fashion journalism. Now 28 and based in Los Angeles, the blogger has appeared on the “Today” show, designed a sell-out swimwear collection, and partnered with brands including Misguided, Nordstrom and Laura Mercier.

16. Danielle Bernstein, We Wore What
The New York-based blogger, 23, started her site as an FIT undergrad eager to capture the style of her fellow students. It soon transformed into a personal style forum, leading to a design project with Topshop.

17.  Jessica Stein, Tuula Vintage
This Sydney-based blogger, 25, spends a good chunk of her time traveling, and sharing her adventures via Instagram. (She’s currently parked in the Maldives.) Brands like Dior Beauty partner with her for the obvious reasons: she has great taste and an enviable life.

Susanna Lau. Photo: Cindy Ord for Getty Images Entertainment

Susanna Lau. Photo: Cindy Ord for Getty Images Entertainment

18. Susanna Lau, Style Bubble
Forever the no. 1 blogger to fashion insiders, the 31-year-old Lau is now one of the industry’s leading voices. While her creative outfit posts are still appreciated, she is even more loved for her sharp opinion, contributing to publications including Elle UK and Business of Fashion, as well as posting regularly on her own site.

19. Chriselle Lim, The Chriselle Factor
With a massive YouTube following, the Los Angeles-based wardrobe stylist, 29, offers her audience plenty of tips and tricks via video. She’s worked with brands including Coach and Banana Republic.

20. Jane Aldridge, Sea of Shoes
Another blogging pioneer, the Dallas-based Aldridge started her site at age 15. Eight years later, she’s still at it, partnering with brands like Lovegold and Cartier on a regular basis.